Ecuador

Ecuador - is the smallest of the Andean countries, and in many ways the easiest and most pleasant to travel in. It has spectacular volcanic and jungle landscapes, vibrant Indian markets and a rich colonial history. The Galapagos Islands, part of Ecuadorian territory, are considered to be one of the world's greatest natural-history treasures.

Environment

Ecuador is draped across the equator in the north-western corner of South America. It shares a disputed border with Peru to the south and east, borders Colombia to the north and abuts the Pacific Ocean to the west. The country can be divided into four regions: the western coastal lowlands, the Andean backbone, the eastern jungles of the Amazonian basin and the Galápagos Islands. The central highlands are composed of two volcanic ranges separated by a central valley, where much of the population lives. The highest peak is Chimborazo (6310 metres).

Culture

Ecuador's pre-Columbian peoples excelled in pottery, painting, sculpture, and gold and silver work. The Spaniards trained indigenous artists to produce colonial religious art, which can be seen in many churches and museums. The Quito School of the 17th and 18th centuries combined these two influences, but was replaced by formalism after independence, which favoured subjects such as heroes of the revolution and members of high society.

Ecuador's colonial religious architecture is predominantly baroque, although domestic architecture tends to be simple and elegant, comprising whitewashed verandahed houses built around a central courtyard. Traditional Andean music has a distinctive haunting sound and is based on an unusual pentatonic scale. Wind and percussion instruments, including the bamboo panpipe and bamboo flutes, are used. Local crafts include fine examples of basketwork, leatherwork, woodcarving, weaving, ceramics and jewellery.

Events

Being a Roman Catholic country, many of the country's festivals are oriented to the liturgical calendar, and are celebrated with a combination of great pageantry and elements of the traditional Indian fiesta. Rural areas in particular have a real party atmosphere, and All Soul's Day on 2 November is especially colourful, with flower-laying ceremonies held in cemeteries - these tend to resemble parties more than sombre remembrance services. Other holidays are of historical interest, for example Simón Bolívar's Birthday on 24 July and Columbus Day on 12 October. The pre-Easter Carnival features water fights and fruit and flower festivals. Corpus Christi is a movable feast in June and combines with traditional harvest fiestas in many highland towns. The larger cities have founding and independence days which virtually bring them to a partying shut down. They include Guayaquil, Otavalo, Cuenca and Quito, and most towns and villages also have their own special days. Shops, offices and services are closed during holidays and festivals, and transportation is often very crowded - book well ahead if possible.

Warning
A 53-year-old border dispute between Ecuador and Peru erupted into armed conflict in February 1995 around the Cenapa River border region in south-eastern Ecuador/north-western Peru. Travellers should avoid this region, check that border crossings between the two countries remain open, and contact their embassy to get up-to-date information on the security situation.

Attractions:

Avenue of Volcanoes - The long valley south of Quito, leading to Cuenca, is flanked by two parallel mountain ranges containing nine of the country's 10 highest peaks and some of the country's wildest scenery. Half of Ecuador's population lives in this valley, which has rich volcanic soil. The area contains scores of isolated Indian villages where the inhabitants lead lifestyles that haven't changed for centuries. Many of these villages are only accessible on foot. The Panamerican highway runs the length of the valley and there are spectacular views along the road. 

Oriente Province - This large province in the lowlands of the Amazon basin has huge areas of rainforest, and attracts visitors interested in ecology, tropical habitats, natural history, indigenous tribes, bird-watching and jungle treks. Avoid any insensitive excursions visiting 'primitive' Indian communities which involve tourists gawking at 'real' Indians. You are not welcome. The main service towns in the region are Macas, Puyo, Tena, Coca and Lago Agrio. The village of Mishahuallí, near Tena, is a good place to organise jungle tours. 

Beaches - Ecuador has warm coastal water year-round. There are decent beaches at Atacames, San Vicente, Bahía de Caráquez, Bahía de Manta, Salinas and Playas. Beware of the strong undertow at Atacames which claims lives every year. 

Galapagos Islands - archipelago is famous for its unique and fearless wildlife, and has become a mecca for natural-history enthusiasts. Here, you can swim with sea lions, float eye-to-eye with penguins and stand next to a blue-footed booby feeding its young. The islands are located in the Pacific Ocean 1000 km east of Ecuador, and comprise 13 main islands and six smaller ones. The landscape is barren and volcanic but has a unique haunting beauty. The islands are renowned for their bird and marine life, which include albatrosses, penguins, boobies, turtles, iguanas, sea lions, whales and dolphins.

A visit to the islands is expensive. The flight from Ecuador and a week cruising the islands will not leave you much change from US$1000; tours are even more expensive. Puerto Ayora is the main town, located on the central island of Santa Cruz. 

Activities - One of the best areas for trekking and climbing is the Parque Nacional Cotopaxi, south of Quito, whose centrepiece is Cotopaxi, a 5897-metre cone-shaped active volcano. Banos, further south, is a good base for short walks and ambitious climbs, and has the added attraction of thermal springs. Area Nacional de Recreación Las Cajas, near Cuenca, is rugged hiking country in bleak terrain scattered with beautiful lakes. The 6310-metre Chimborazo is Ecuador's highest peak and is for experienced climbers only. The area around the mountain, however, is suitable for less strenuous treks.

Scuba diving is possible in the Galápagos Islands but you must have your own equipment and book a tour in advance. Snorkelling in the archipelago is less hassle and you may find baby sea lions approaching to stare at you through your mask. Bring your own snorkelling gear.

Jungle excursions can be arranged at Misahuali, Coca, Banos, Dureno, Tena and Quito. Excursions often include walks, swims and dugout-canoe trips. Bird-watchers should take a jungle tour, and visit Area Nacional de Recreación Las Cajas, Parque Nacional Cotopaxi or the Galapagos Islands. 

Getting There & Away - Quito and Guayaquil have international airports. There are frequent direct connections to Miami, Los Angeles and Houston; nearly all flights from Europe and Australasia go via these US cities or via Venezuela or the Caribbean. There are also direct flights to a handful of Central and South American countries. However, the main hub for international flights to/from western South America is Lima, so it could be cheaper to fly to Peru and continue to Ecuador overland (a 24-hour bus trip). 

Overland travel on public buses between Ecuador and Colombia and between Ecuador and Peru is straightforward. There are border crossings to Peru at Macará and near Huaquillas in the south, and to Colombia at Tulcán. The crossing to Colombia at Lago Agrio, in the north-east, is considered dangerous.

Getting Around - Ecuador is a small country, but travellers should consider occasional internal flights. The main domestic airline is TAME, and almost all flights originate or terminate in Quito or Guayaquil. Internal flights are frequently delayed but are exceptionally cheap and many offer spectacular views of the snowcapped Andes. Confirm and re-confirm all tickets. There are flights to several Galápagos Islands from Quito and Guayaquil, but they are expensive for travellers at around US$375 return. It's also possible to go by boat, but it works out no cheaper.

Most travellers use buses to get around. Busetas (22-seater small buses) are the fastest for long-distance travel; coaches are slower but can be more social and fun. Keep your passport with you when travelling by bus; there are frequent, but usually cursory, transit police checks on the outskirts of towns. Avoid taking night buses through Guayas Province unless you have to. Pick-up trucks and taxis can be hired for long journeys, but negotiate a price in advance. Car rental is available in a few major towns; prices are comparable to the US or Europe.

The Quito-Guayaquil railway line is one of the most spectacular in the world. The Riobamba-Alausi section has been closed for several years, so check which parts of the line are open.