Colombia

Colombia - If you believe everything you read in the newspapers, you may have a strange idea that Colombia, or Locombia - the mad country - as the press like to call it, may not be the ideal place to visit. But don't be unduly discouraged because, though the violence, cocaine cartels and guerilla insurgency which dominate the headlines are very real, they do not necessarily impact on the personal safety of travellers who keep their wits about them.

The Colombia that you don't hear about in the newspapers is surprisingly relaxed, has a fairly stable economy, and is inhabited by extremely personable and spirited people pursuing orderly lives. Its cities maybe daunting, but it has some wonderful towns, Caribbean beaches, cordilleras, Andean valleys and Amazonian rainforest. Steeped in myth and mysticism, Colombia is, arguably, the most underrated travel destination on the continent.

Environment - Colombia is the fourth-largest country in South America, and the only country in that region with coasts on both the Pacific and Caribbean. It shares borders with Panama (to the north-west), Venezuela (east), Brazil (south-east), Peru (south) and Ecuador (south-west). Colombian territory also includes the San Andrés and Providencia island groups, 700 km north-west of the mainland, in the Caribbean Sea. The archipelagoes are 230 km east of Nicaragua.

The western part of the country is mostly mountainous: the 8000-km Cordillera de los Andes runs the length of South America and, on reaching Colombia, splits into three ranges (Cordillera Occidental, Cordillera Central and Cordillera Oriental). Two valleys - Valle del Cauca and Valle del Magdalena - are sandwiched between the three cordilleras; their rivers flow northwards, more or less parallel, until the Cauca River (1350 km long) joins the Magdalena River (1538 km long) and flows into the Caribbean. Apart from the three Andean chains, Colombia boasts the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the highest coastal mountain range in the world. Over 50% of the territory east of the Andes is lowland or covered by thick rainforest crisscrossed by rivers and their tributaries.

Among Colombia's geographical curiosities are deserts in the north-east; the jungle of the Pacific coast (which holds a record for highest rainfall); and the Serranía de la Macarena, an isolated mountain formation rising 1000 metres from the eastern plains.

Culture - Colombia is an ethnic mosaic, reflected in its culture, folklore, arts and crafts. The different roots and traditions of the Indians, Spanish and Africans have produced interesting fusions, particularly in crafts, sculpture and music. Pre-Columbian art consists primarily of stone sculpture, pottery and goldwork. Indian basketware, weaving and pottery date back to pre-Columbian times but now fuse modern techniques with traditional designs. Colombian music incorporates both the African rhythms of the Caribbean, Cuban salsa, and heavily Spanish-influenced Andean music.

Colombia's literary giant is Gabriel García Márquez, whose works mix myths, dreams and reality in a style critics have dubbed magic realism. García Márquez insists his work is documentary, which says a lot about the nature, rhythm and perception of life in Colombia. The best of Colombia's exciting new writers is Moreno Durán, who has been burdened with the reputation of being the best Latin American novelist to emerge since the regional upsurge in literary talent in the 1950s. 

Spanish is Colombia's official language and, except for some remote Indian tribes, all Colombians speak it. There are also about 75 Indian languages still used in the country. While the education system includes English in its curriculum, it remains little known and rarely spoken.

Events - The Colombian calendar is awash with festivals, carnivals, fairs and beauty pageants. Some of the biggest events include: Carnaval de Blancos y Negros (Pasto; January); Festival Internacional de Música del Caribe (Cartagena; March); Semana Santa (Holy Week) (most prominent celebrations are in Popayán and Mompós; March or April); Feria de las Flores (Medellín; August); and Reinado del Coco (San Andrés; November).

Warning - The US State Department has warned US citizens against travelling to Colombia. The department considers the entire area east of the Andes (except Leticia) and the north coast (except Barranquilla, Cartagena, San Andres and Santa Marta) dangerous. Areas considered security risks include the departments of Cundinamarca, Antioquia, northern Choco, southern Tolima, and rural areas of Valle de Cauca, Huila and Cauca. If you follow this advice, there is not much of Colombia left to explore. The best way to avoid trouble is to read the local press to monitor recent guerrilla movements and avoid areas where they are active. During May 1996, in response to increased rebel bomb strikes, ambushes and murders, the Columbian Air force has been carrying out bombing raids in guerrilla areas.

Don't wear expensive items of clothing or carry expensive cameras or handbags, because this will increase the chance of robbery. Give a wide berth to Colombian police unless absolutely necessary as they have a less than savoury reputation. Drugs, especially cocaine and its derivatives, are prevalent throughout the country and should be avoided at all costs. Don't accept drinks or cigarettes from strangers as they may be laced with borrachero, a soporific drug often used on hapless tourists. 

Attractions:

Cartagena & the Caribbean Coast - Cartagena de Indias is legendary both for its history and its beauty. It has been immortalised on countless canvases, glorified in hundreds of books and had its every detail photographed a zillion times - and, as Colombia's most fascinating city, it deserves everyone of these tributes.

The walled old town of this fortified Spanish colonial port is a gem. It's packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and noble mansions with overhanging balconies and shady patios. It pays to just wander through the old town, but some of the highlights are the Palacio de la Inquisición; the colonial mansion Casa del Marqués de Valdehoyos; and the lovely old port of Cartagena on the Bahia de las Animas.

Activities - Six-day return treks to the ruins of La Ciudad Perdida are very popular. Guides can arrange transport, food and accommodation (guides are essential because the area is an important marijuana and coca-growing region). The five to seven-day Nabusímake-Pico Colón Trek in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a great way to experience Colombia's mountains.

There is great snorkelling and diving off the Islas del Rosario, 30 km offshore from Cartagena, and off the the Isla Barú, the peninsula south of Cartagena. The waters around San Andrés and Providencia are ooh-aah pretty-fishy spots of choice delight.

Adventurous jungle tours of the Amazonian interior can be arranged in Leticia. Well-equipped guides are thick on the ground and tours of up to 10 days can be easily arranged. High-speed film - the jungle is often gloomy - and mosquito repellent are a must. 

Getting There & Away - Colombia's location at the northern edge of South America means it has good and relatively cheap air links with both Europe and North America. Most visitors fly to Colombia's major international airport in Bogotá; the other international airports include Cartagena and San Andres.
The country has road connections with Venezuela and Ecuador only. Travellers planning to use the dangerous Arauca-El Amparo de Apure border crossing or the Puerto Carreño-Puerto Páez crossing into Venezuela should consult their embassy to assess the security situation. Colombian guerilla attacks on Venezuelan army posts resulted in a confrontational build up of troops on both sides of the border in March 1995. The truly intrepid can enter Colombia from Panama via the Darién Gap - the dense, dangerous and environmentally important jungle which interrupts the Pan-American highway. The trip takes a couple of weeks, requires guides, advance planning, a high degree of self-reliance and some good fortune. It is not to be undertaken lightly. Ports on both Pacific and Caribbean coasts, make it possible to arrive or leave by boat. Sea traffic is busier on the Caribbean side: boats are frequently coming and going between the USA, Mexico, Central America, the Caribbean islands and Venezuela. Colombian ports on the Caribbean include Baranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta and Turbo; its major Pacific port is Buenaventura.

Getting Around - Colombia was the first country in South America to have an airline: SCADTA was founded in 1919 and later became Avianca. It now has a well-developed airline system and one of the densest networks of domestic flights in Latin America. The country's policy of cielos abiertos (open skies), begun in 1991, has meant the introduction of a number of new carriers and an enormous variety of aircraft, from jumbo jets to anything that can manage to take off. Airfares are relatively high (Avianca and Sam are the most expensive carriers) but some of the newly established airlines offer promotional fares that can be ridiculously cheap. Remember to reconfirm your reservations at least 72 hours in advance and be prepared for rescheduled or postponed flights. There is a US$3.50 airport tax on domestic flights.

Buses provide the main means of getting around the country and are cheap, efficient and extensive. Unfortunately the roads, except for main routes, often beggar description.

Other forms of transport include chivas (an old-style, wooden bus used primarily on outback roads) and collectivos (a cross between a bus and taxi, and used on fixed routes). There is no train service within the country and independent travel (car or motorcycle) is not recommended as it is both expensive and dangerous. Water transport, especially along the Pacific coast where no roads exist, is irregular and primitive. 

Getting around the cities by bus can be slow and they are usually crowded, but taxis are excellent value and can be chartered for long distances. A fast city train in Medellín has been planned and the first stretch of the metro should be completed early in 1995.