Bolivia

Bolivia - Landlocked Bolivia is the Tibet of the Americas - the highest and most isolated of the Latin American republics. It is also the most Indian country on the continent, with over 50% of the population maintaining traditional Indian values and beliefs. Bolivia may be one of the poorest countries in South America, but its indigenous cultures, the mindblowing Andean landscapes, and the remnants of mysterious ancient civilisations make it the richest and most exciting destination for adventurous and independent travellers.

Environment - Bolivia is sandwiched between Peru, Paraguay, Argentina, Brazil and Chile in central South America. It is the fifth-largest country on the continent, measuring roughly the size of France and Spain combined. There are five geographical regions: the highly populated Altiplano, a 3500-metre-high plateau which stretches from the Peruvian border north of Lake Titicaca southwards to the Argentine border; the highland valleys, which lie to the south and east of the Altiplano and which boast near optimum climatic conditions and fertile soils; the Yungas, which form the transition zone between the icy peaks of the Andes and the steamy Amazonian forest; the Chaco, a hot, dry, impenetrable and uninhabited plain along the Paraguayan and Argentine borders; and the underdeveloped swamps, savannas, scrub and rainforest of the Amazonian Basin, which occupies much of the north and east of the country.

Due to its relatively sparse population, lack of development and diverse geography, Bolivia is one of the best places on the continent to see South American wildlife. Fauna includes the rare spectacled bear, jaguar, vicuña, llama, alpaca, anteater, tapir, capybara, turtle, alligator, rhea and condor. Although Bolivia has a fairly good national park system, encroachment into the lowlands of the Amazonian basin by settlers is increasing, and the huge fortunes awaiting those prepared to exploit the area's mineral, agricultural and timber resources has made environmentalism a less convenient posture for the government to adopt.

Because of the extreme geographical variations, Bolivia has a wide range of climatic patterns. Generally, temperatures are cool, with the rainy period extending from November to March in most of the country. The cities of La Paz and Potosí often experience very cold temperatures and sometimes snow, while the Altiplano region is prone to severe flooding. During the dry period the climate is pleasant, though clear skies can cause night-time temperatures to drop. In the lowlands, the weather is hot and sunny, with the occasional cloudburst helping to cool things down.

Culture - Musical traditions within Bolivia are distinctly regional: strains of Andean music from the desolate Altiplano are suitably haunting and mournful, while those of warmer Tarija, with its compliment of bizarre musical instruments, take on more ebullient tones. Dances such as the cueca, auqui-auqui and tinku hold a reverent place in popular culture. Other forms of folk expression include spinning and weaving, which display regional differences but have changed little over the last 3000 years.

Spanish is the official language, yet only 60 to 70% of the people actually speak it, and then often only as a second language. The remainder speak Quechua, the language of the Inca, or Aymará, the pre-Inca language of the Altiplano.

Roughly 95% of Bolivia's population professes to be Roman Catholic, but the absence of clergy in rural areas has led to a synthesis of Inca and Aymará beliefs with Christianity. The hybrid Christian/folk religion is an interesting conglomeration of doctrines, rites and superstitions. 

Bolivia's food is dominated by meat dishes, accompanied by rice, potatoes and shredded lettuce. Sometimes llajhua (a hot sauce made from tomatoes and pepper pods) will be used to add spice and flavour to a dish. Bolivian beer, wine and chicha (industrial-strength maize liquor) are all good but be warned: if invited to drink with locals, be prepared to get plastered as the alcohol is strong and Bolivian drinking habits lusty.

Events - Bolivian fiestas are invariably of religious or political origin, normally commemorating a Christian or Indian saint or god, or a political event such as a battle or revolution. The festivities typically include lots of folk music, dancing processions, food, alcohol, ritual and generally unrestrained behaviour. Major fiestas include Fiesta de la Virgen de Candelaria, a week-long festival in the virgin's honour, best seen in Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca (early February); Carnival is a nationwide event but is best seen in Oruro (the week before Lent); Phujllay is held in Tarabuco to commemorate the Battle of Lumbati (early March); the animated Festividad de Nuestro Señor Jesus del Gran Poder is held in La Paz to celebrate the power of Jesus Christ (May-June); and Independence Day is a riotous nationwide party (6 August). 

Warning - The area between Cochabamba and Santa Cruz in central Bolivia has been the scene of anti-narcotics campaigns and is potentially dangerous. Travellers should consult their embassy prior to travelling to assess the security risk.

Attraction:

Lake Titicaca - Traditionally regarded as the highest navigable body of water in the world (in reality there are higher lakes in Chile and Peru), Lake Titicaca is immense: its dimensions measure 233 km from north-west to south-east and 97 km from north-east to south-west. The lake has an indented shoreline, 36 islands and exceptionally clear sapphire-blue water. Titicaca is revered by the Indians who live on its shores, and the Islas del Sol and Islas de la Luna, two islands in the lake, are the legendary sites of the Inca's creation myths. The main town in the area is Copacabana, which has a sparkling white Moorish-style Cathedral and is host to the Fiesta de la Virgen de Candelaria. Isla Suriqui is world-renowned for its totora reed boats; Isla Kalahuta for its stone tombs; and Isla Incas is reputed in legend to have an underground network of passageways linking it to the old Inca capital of Cuzco in Peru.

Travellers should wear protective headgear around the lake because the thin air results in scorchingly high levels of ultraviolet radiation. Half of the lake lies within the borders of Peru; Puno is the principal settlement and main centre for excursions on the Peruvian shore of the lake.

Cochabamba - Reputed to have the world's most perfect climate and Bolivia's most hardcore drinkers, the city of Cochabamba occupies a fertile green bowl in a landscape of fields and low hills. The city, founded in 1574, is Bolivia's largest market town and was once the nation's granary. It is still prosperous and progressive, and has a clutch of historical and archaeological attractions, including the 400-year-old cathedral, the Convento de Santa Teresa and the Museo Arqueologico.

Sorata - Often described as having the most beautiful setting in Bolivia, this sleepy town sits at an elevation of almost 2700 metres in a valley beneath the towering snowcapped peaks of Illampú (6362 metres) and Ancohuma (6427 metres). The lush valley and bounteous vegetation attract a steady stream of travellers, nearly all of whom fall in love with the place. Most visitors make the 10-km walk to Gruta de San Pedro to see the cave and underground lake.

Tupiza - located in the heart of some of Bolivia's most spectacular countryside, is a real gem for anyone who loves desert landscapes. It's a young, cultured city which lies in the narrow valley of the Río Tupiza. It is surrounded by the rugged Cordillera de Chichas, whose attractions include multi-hued rocks, mountains, chasms, clear rivers, cactus forests, brilliant skies and wide open spaces.

Activities - Most of the popular treks begin near La Paz, traverse the Cordillera Real on ancient Inca routes, and end in the Yungas. The three-day La Cumbre to Coroico Trek, north-east of La Paz, is the premier hike in Bolivia. Other popular treks include the two-day Taquesi Trek, also known as the Inca Trail, which crosses a low pass in the Cordillera Real between Ventilla and Chulumani; the little-known Yunga Cruz Trek, between the village of Chuñavi and Chulumani, which passes over a shoulder of the mighty Illimani; and the six-day El Camino de Oro, or Gold Trail, which heads from Sorata to the Río Tipuani goldfields. The less strenuous walk to the Zongo Valley Ice Caves near La Paz is a spectacular alternative for those suffering cramps or needing to adjust gently to the high altitude. The Cordillera Real also offer great climbing opportunities, including Illimani, 6088-metre Huayna Potosí, 5648-metre Condoriri and the 6427-metre Ancohuma. You can ski at the world's highest developed ski run atop a glacier on the slopes of Chacaltaya, near La Paz, or at nearby but less developed areas on Condoriri and Mururata.

When you've exhausted the mountains, jungle treks in the Amazonian Basin can be arranged in Rurrenabaque, El Porvenir, Perseverancia (in the Preseverancia and Reserva de Vida Salvaje Ríos Blanco y Negro) and in the remote but pristine Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado in the northernmost reaches of Santa Cruz Department. River boats plying the Río Mamoré from Trinidad go into the heart of Bolivia's greatest wilderness area, enabling travellers to experience the mystique and solitude for which the Amazon is renowned.

Getting There & Away - Only a limited number of airlines offer services directly to Bolivia and fares are high. Many people fly into another South American country, such as Argentina, Brazil, Colombia or Peru, and travel overland to Bolivia, which generally works out cheaper. Border crossing points include Villazón-La Quiaca and Yacuiba-Pocitos (Argentina); Quijarro-Corumbá and Guayaramerín-Guajará-Mirim (Brazil); Charaña-Visviri and Abaroa-Ollagüe (Chile); Yunguyo-Puno and Desaguadero-Puno (Peru).

Getting Around - Domestic air services are provided by LAB, TAM and AeroXpress. Be prepared for delays, cancellations and general unreliability. Bolivia's road network is not good, mainly because of the lack of paved roads. Most long-distance buses depart in the evening and travel through the night. If you want to see the countryside between towns, you're better off catching a truck, a popular mode of transport among campesinos. Trucks are half the price of buses, but can be rough going. There are two rail networks: one in the west and one in the east. The eastern network is completely chaotic; the western network is just disorganised. Don't be fooled by trains called tren expreso and other zippy names; all trains apart from the ferrobus are excruciatingly slow. The Ichilo, Mamoré, Beni, Madre de Dios and Guaporé rivers are the main thoroughfares in the Amazon Basin.