Guyana

Guyana - Dutch and British colonisation made an indelible mark on Guyana, leaving behind a now dilapidated colonial capital, a volatile mix of peoples, and a curious political geography. The country's natural attractions, however, are impressive, unspoiled and on a scale that dwarfs human endeavour. Guyana has immense falls, vast tropical rainforest and savanna teeming with wildlife. If the government doesn't destroy the environment in a bid to pay off its huge foreign debt, Guyana could be the eco-tourism destination of the future. Right now, it's the place for independent, rugged, Indiana Jones types who don't mind visiting a country that everybody else thinks is in Africa.

Environment - Roughly the size of the UK, Guyana is bordered by Venezuela to the west, Suriname to the east, and overshadowed by Brazil to the south. Its northern coast abuts the Atlantic Ocean. The country's most prominent geological feature is the Guiana Shield, a vast crystalline upland north of the Río Solimões, the Amazon's major channel. From Mt Roraima (2772 metres), on the Brazilian border, the shield recedes in steps all the way to the coast. Thick rainforest covers great chunks of the interior, though south-western Guyana features extensive grassland. About 90% of the population lives on the agriculturally rich coastal plain. Guyana's varied and spectacular wildlife includes brightly-plumed birds and mammals such as tapirs, ocelots and monkeys. The equatorial climate results in high temperatures, tempered by cooling sea breezes. There are two rainy seasons: from May to mid-August and from mid-November to mid-January.

Culture - The visual arts, especially painting and sculpture, are highly developed and can be seen at special exhibitions in the capital. International success has greeted poet and novelist ER Braithwaite and the British-based actor Norman Beaton. Cricket and football are the major outdoor sports, while the national indoor pursuit is dominoes. The majority of Afro-Guyanese are Christian, usually Anglican, and there's also a handful of Black Muslims. Most of the East Indian population is Hindu, but there's a sizeable Muslim minority.

Guyanese food is distinctive and usually based on seafood or creole dishes like pepperpot, a spicy stew cooked in bitter cassava juice. Added to this are East Indian dishes such as curries and roti. Chinese food is also common. Beverages include Banks beer, local rum, brandy and whisky, and delicious fruit punches.

Events - The national celebrations marking Republic Day (February) last about a week and are the most important cultural event of the year. Hindu and Muslim religious festivals are also celebrated and include Phagwah (early March) and Divali (November).

Warning - Street crime and physical violence are common in Guyana, particularly in Georgetown. Visitors should avoid walking after dark, maintain alertness at all times, and keep out of Georgetown's Tiger Bay area.

Activities - There's a brace of tour operators in Georgetown specialising in overland camping treks to Kaieteur and Orinduik falls, horse riding and hiking in the Rupununi and rainforest, fishing and jungle treks at the Timberhead resort, as well as river trips and whitewater rafting on the Essequibo, Kamuni and Mazaruni rivers. There's also good swimming at Bartica, and birdwatching at Lethem.

Attractions:

Kaieteur Falls - Guyana's number one attraction ranks alongside the Niagara, Victoria and Iguazú falls in power and majesty - with the added bonus of being surrounded by virgin forest. Its waters drop 250 precipitous metres from a sandstone tableland and, depending on the season, are nearly 100 metres wide. Its isolated location means wildlife thrives in the area, but it also requires determination to reach. Small planes fly to the falls from Georgetown but seats can be difficult to secure. Otherwise, it's a rugged two-day walk with a guide from Bartica (see Off the Beaten Track). The Orinduik Falls, south west of here, on the Brazilian border, is another popular destination.

The Rupununi Savanna - in the country's south west, is a vast area of grassland, termite mounds, forested hills and a skein of freshwater creeks - perfect for swimming (watch out for the stingrays though). Wild animals abound, but they're retiring and rarely seen. Also of interest is a number of fascinating Amerindian villages, and a few cattle ranches once belonging to 19th-century Scottish settlers. Permits are required to visit the Rupununi; tour operators can do the paperwork for you or you can apply several months in advance to Guyana's Ministry of Home Affairs.

Getting There & Away - Most travellers arrive from North America or the Caribbean, and less frequently from Venezuela (via Trinidad) and Suriname. There are no direct flights from Europe. The international departure tax is US$8. Overland crossings can be made to/from Brazil at the Lethem-Bomfin crossing point, but the border with Venezuela is closed. A rickety passenger ferry crosses the Courantyne River at Corriverton (Springlands) to the Surinamese town of Nieuw Nickerie.

Getting Around - Guyana Airways has scheduled flights between Georgetown and Lethem plus a few other interior destinations. There's also several charter companies. Minibuses and collective taxis link Georgetown and most towns on the coastal belt. Guyana's road network, apart from a paved two-lane stretch from the capital to Linden, is poor and deters all but the hardiest of cyclists. With almost 1000 km of navigable river, Guyana has ferry services galore. Car hire is available in Georgetown and taxis are a must if crossing the city at night.