Philippines

Philippines - The 7,000 islands which comprise the Philippines are the forgotten islands of South-East Asia: they're off the main overland route and have never attracted great numbers of tourists. Despite the political upheavals and the country's reputation as the economic basket case of Asia, it remains a laid back and relatively safe country to travel in. Transport is frequent and cheap, the food is good, accommodation is plentiful and (for the monolinguistic) English is widely spoken.

Environment - The Philippines consists of 7107 islands in the western Pacific Ocean, only 2000 of which are inhabited. Luzon and Mindanao are by far the largest, and comprise roughly 66% of the country's area. Only about 1000 islands are larger than one sq km and 2500 aren't even named. The Philippines' nearest neighbours are Taiwan (north), Eastern Malaysia and Brunei (south-west), and Indonesia (south). 

The archipelago has a volcanic topography and experiences frequent seismic activity. There are 37 volcanoes in the archipelago and the highest peak is Mt Apo (2954 metres) in Mindanao. About half the country is under cultivation and about a third remains forested, despite tree-felling and slash-and-burn agriculture. There are more than a 1000 species of birds and animals, notably wild dwarf buffalo, mouse deer, crocodiles and pythons. There are over 10,000 species of trees, shrubs and ferns, the most common of which are palms and bamboos.

Culture - The Philippines has developed a mixed culture from the blending of foreign influences with native elements. Today, the Muslims, and some of the isolated tribes, are the only people whose culture remains unadulterated by Spanish and American influences.

Although traditional theatre, literature and kundimans (love songs) in the national language have experienced a resurgence since Cory Aquino's People Power movement, visitors are more likely to witness beauty contests, lurid soap operas, violent and sentimental Filipino movies, and local bands perfectly imitating Western pop tunes. 

The Philippines is the only Christian country in Asia. Over 90% of the population claim to follow Christian faiths. The largest of the minority religious groups are the Muslims, who live chiefly on Mindanao and in the Sulu archipelago. There is also a Philippine Independence Church, some Buddhists, and a small number of animists.

Filipino cuisine has Chinese, Malay and Spanish influences. Popular morning and afternoon snacks are called merienda, and pulutan (small morsels) are served with alcoholic drinks. Barbecued sticks of meat or seafood are popular evening snacks. Standard dishes, always served with rice, include meat and vegetables cooked with vinegar and garlic, grilled grouper, meat stews and a huge variety of soups - rice, noodle, beef, chicken, liver, kneecap, offal and sour vegetable. Side dishes include strips of unripened papaya, fermented fish or shrimp paste and bite-sized pieces of crispy pig skin. Halo-halo is a dessert made from crushed ice mixed with sweets and fruits and smothered in evaporated milk.

Events - New Year's Day is celebrated with great vigour and plenty of fireworks. On 9 January, the Black Nazarene Procession, the largest procession in the country, carries a life-size, blackwood statue of Jesus through the streets of Quiapo. The Filipino version of Mardi Gras is the three-day Ati-Atihan, celebrated in Kalibo on Panay in the third week in January. On Good Friday, there are many scourges throughout the country, which have become popular attractions, especially those at San Fernando and Antipolo, near Manila. There are more processions on Flores de Mayo in May, this time in honour of the Virgin Mary. Independence Day is celebrated on 12 June with military parades. There are local festivals taking place just about every week of the year somewhere in the Philippines. 

Warning - The Philippine government and the Moro National Liberation Front have yet to agree on how to implement a 20-year-old agreement that promised self-rule to more than a dozen provinces and a number of cities on Mindanao. Impatient Muslim separatists launched a major attack on the town of Ipil in western Mindanao in April 1995 slaughtering 45 people. This was followed by an attack on the coastal town of Tungawan, 35 km from Ipil, which resulted in 10 deaths. Muslim separatists have also exploded bombs in Mindanao's Zamboanga city. Compromise seems unlikely with the rise of a splinter group, the militant Moro Islamic Liberation Front, which considers the struggle a holy war. The MILF claims to have an area of influence covering much of central southern Mindanao. Contact your embassy in the Philippines for the latest update on the security situation.

The Philippines archipelago is serviced by a flotilla of ferries, some of them little more than rickety tubs that are often overcrowded and under serviced. There are 100 ferry accidents a year in the Philippines, many of them involving high numbers of fatalities. Legislators have begun to call for the death penalty for negligent operators whose boats sink, but this is unlikely to improve the sea worthiness of many vessels. If you feel uncomfortable boarding a ferry that looks shonky, leaky and overcrowded, look for an alternative boat or catch a plane. 

Attractions: 

Beaches - The superb little island of Boracay, off the north-western tip of Panay, has beautiful clear water, splendid beaches and good snorkelling. Puerto Galera, on the island of Mindoro, vies with Boracay as the place to laze around in the sun. Puraran, on Catanduanes, off Luzon, has a beautiful beach, reef and surf, but currents can be dangerous.

There are countless spectacular sights scattered throughout the archipelago, including the strange Chocolate Hills of Bohol in the Visayas; the volcanic crater Lake Taal, south of Manila; the burial caves of Sagada, 18 km from Bontoc; the easygoing port city of Cebu, where Magellan marked the beginning of Christianity in the Philippines by erecting a cross; and 5,000 uninhabited islands to explore. 

Banaue - The spectacular rice terraces around Banaue, in north Luzon, have been described (like a lot of other places) as the eighth wonder of the world. Carved out of the hillside by Ifugao tribespeople 2000 to 3000 years ago, these remarkable terraces stretch like stepping stones to the sky - some reaching an altitude of 1500 metres. 

Activities - Several hotels in Angeles offer tours to Mt Pinatubo which erupted violently in 1991 and left an amazing landscape. Walk among the ravines, drive up in a jeep or arrange an aerial tour. You can also climb Mayon, in southern Luzon, which has been described as the world's most perfect volcanic cone. This 2450-metre active volcano has erupted four times since 1968, the last time in February 1993. It takes several days to climb and guides can be found in Legaspi. Other appealing climbs include the Mt Taal, south of Manila, described as the smallest and most dangerous volcano in the world; and the Philippines' highest peak, Mt Apo, on Mindanao.

There are wonderful trekking opportunities along Luzon's Pacific Coast, especially in Bikol and Quezon provinces. For those who want to escape motorised transport completely, nothing beats walking on Batan Island or Lubang, where the horse cart still retains its place as the primary mode of transport. Wildlife enthusiasts should visit Calauit Island, where the wildlife sanctuary has been breeding African animals successfully for nearly 20 years. Giraffes, zebras and gazelles can be seen.

With 7000 islands, the Philippines has a wealth of opportunities for diving and snorkelling. Favoured spots are Boracay, Alona Beach (Bohol), Puerto Princesa (Palawan) and the island of Apo. Canoeists can shoot the rapids in Pagsanjan, 70 km south-east of Manila. If the river looks familiar in places, that's because Coppola filmed parts of Apocalypse Now on the river. Spelunkers can explore Palawan's Underground River, an eight-km-long meandering network of caves. 

Getting There & Away - Basically the only way to get to the Philippines is by plane; Manila and Cebu are the only major entry points. There are flights between the Philippines and plenty of Asian cities, Australia, New Zealand and the USA. There are also flights between Davao in Mindanao and Manado on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi. Departure tax is US$20; confirm onward flights at least 72 hours before departure.

Getting Around - There are several airlines offering internal flights between Philippine cities. There is only one operating railway line, from Manila to Naga in southern Luzon, so long-distance buses are the main overland alternative. There are plenty of ferries and boats operating between islands, though the safety and quality of services vary (see warning). Car rental is also available, and international agencies have offices in most major cities. Local transport includes jeepneys (originally reconstructed jeeps), metered taxis, PU-Cabs (small taxis without meters), tricycles (motorbikes with sidecars) and trishaws.