Macau

Macau - The tiny territory of Macau is Portugal's last remaining colony and the oldest surviving European settlement in Asia. It's an oddity which has managed to cling to the Chinese coast since the mid-16th century, despite attempts by the Chinese, Spanish and the Dutch to brush it off. It's only 65 km from Hong Kong, but predates it by some 300 years. Macau is steeped in Old World elegance, full of cobbled side streets, baroque churches, rococo houses and Portuguese fortresses, yet the lure of its casino gaming tables is so strong that its other attractions have almost been forgotten. Macau has two distinct cultures: one Portuguese, the other Chinese.

Environment - Macau is divided into three main areas - the Macau Peninsula, which is attached to China at the northern tip, and the two islands of Taipa and Coloane. Taipa is to the south of Macau and is attached to it by two bridges. Coloane is south of Taipa and connected to it by a causeway. The 16-sq-km territory is gradually getting bigger and changing shape due to siltation and land-reclamation projects.

Macau's climate is almost identical to Hong Kong's, with short, occasionally chilly winters, and long, hot, humid summers. November is usually the best month, with mild temperatures and dry weather. April and May are also pleasant. Sea breezes act as natural air conditioning in summer. Typhoons are most common between June and October. 

Culture - The Chinese population is indistinguishable culturally from that of Hong Kong. The Portuguese minority, however, has a vastly different culture which they have kept largely intact. Although mixed marriages are not uncommon, there has been little cultural assimilation between the two ethnic groups - most Portuguese cannot speak Chinese and vice versa.

The Chinese majority are predominantly Taoists and Buddhists, but nearly 500 years of Portuguese influence has left an imprint, and the Catholic Church is very strong. Many Chinese have been converted to Christianity and visitors are likely to see Chinese nuns.

Portuguese is the official language, though Cantonese is the language of choice for about 95% of the population. English is the main language of instruction in the Macau educational system, but it's regarded as a third language despite the fact that it's more commonly spoken than Portuguese. Mandarin Chinese is understood by more than half the Chinese population.

Macau's exotic mixture of Portuguese and Chinese cuisines also has African and European influences. The most famous local speciality is African chicken (baked with peppers and chillies), while the former Portuguese enclave of Goa on the west coast of India contributed spicy prawns to the menu. Cod, sole, rabbit and ox tail or breast are popular, and specialities include baked crab and grilled and stuffed king prawns. The most visible Portuguese influence is the fine range of imported red and white wines, ports and brandies. 

Events - The Dragon Boat Festival is held in June. The international Music Festival is held in the third week of October. The biggest event of the year is the Macau Grand Prix, on the third weekend in November. It takes place through the streets of the city, like the Grand Prix in Monaco. The Macau Marathon is held in December and has begun to attract international attention. Portuguese-style (i.e. non-fatal) bullfighting returns to Macau in 1996 after a 30 year ban was overturned. 

Attractions:

Macau Peninsula - Approximately 98% of Macau's population lives on the Macau Peninsula, making it one of the most crowded areas on earth. The peninsula's once-peaceful character has already been badly battered by cars and high-rise buildings, but there's still plenty to see of historical interest in Macau and a wander through its winding streets is a delight. Points of interest include the ruins of St Paul's Church, which is regarded as the greatest monument to Christianity in the East; the Monte Fort, which overlooks the city; the Guia Fortress and its 17th-century chapel and lighthouse; the beautiful, baroque St Dominic's Church; and the peaceful Lou Lim Loc Gardens. 

Hotels on the Macau Peninsula are concentrated near the Floating Casino and near the waterfront by the Rua da Praia Grande and Jetfoil Pier. Atmospheric evening food stalls are located in Rua da Escola Commercial, and cheap Chinese restaurants set up chairs outdoors at night near the Floating Casino on Rua das Lorchas. Macau's casinos are a fairly substandard bunch but they have no trouble attracting customers. Lisboa Casino is the largest and liveliest.

The Islands - Taipa and Coloane have a completely different character from the crowded Macau Peninsula. The relatively quiet environment and sandy beaches stand in sharp contrast to Macau's glittering casinos and busy streets, but they are coming under intense pressure to increase development. Taipa now has two major hotels, a university, horse-racing track, high-rise apartments and an almost-finished airport. A golf course and deepwater port on Coloane heralds the new era of change at any cost. A massive land reclamation project to connect Taipa and Coloane could be the final nail in the coffin. Still, these islands have a way to go before reaching the level of intense development seen on the peninsula. 

Getting There & Away - Macau's airport opened in late 1995, and there are flights to the Chinese mainland, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Most visitors, however, arrive by sea from Hong Kong. Jetfoils negotiate the 65-km trip in an hour and high-speed ferries take 90 minutes. There is also an overnight ferry between Macau and Guangzhou, and a daily ferry to/from Shekou in the Shenzen Economic Zone north of Hong Kong. Departure tax is M$20. Macau has a small land border with China and you can walk across to Gongbei in the Zhuhai Special Economic Zone or catch a direct bus to Guangzhou.

Getting Around - It's possible to explore most of the Macau Peninsula on foot. If you want to explore the islands of Taipa and Coloane, use public transport. There are plenty of buses and minibuses, but buy a good map to decipher their routes. Macau's metered taxis are black with cream-coloured roofs and they can be hired by the day or half-day. Car rental is available but impractical. Driving on the peninsula is an insane idea and parking spaces are rare. Even if you intend to explore the islands, you're better catching a bus. Bicycles can be rented on Taipa and Coloane. Pedicabs are available for short trips as a tourist novelty; agree on a price beforehand. Tours are a fast way to see the sights with minimum hassle if you don't mind following someone else's schedule.